Monday, 18 March 2013
114 Junction Road,
London N19 5LB
All pizzas: £8-9.50
As disparaging as I am about Archway, I've had some truly delicious food there these past few weeks. First was the roujiamo from Mama Wang's, and a few days ago I experienced the media-vaunted pizzas at The Hideaway.
Sandwiched between an off-license and a bin-lined alleyway are some of the finest pizzas that London can offer, even in these days of Franco Manca's cross-capital expansion and every louchely lit hipster market offering up gourmet slices. The restaurant is cosy and undemanding with sofas, comfy chairs and the lights turned down low in comparison to the stark lines and lighting of the nation's favourite pizza chains.
The menu keeps it simple: fourteen pizzas, two calzones, six salads, two desserts. All are simply done with good quality ingredients at reasonable prices. I had the Caprino pizza, a tomato-based pizza with mozzarella, goats cheese, juicy sun-dried tomatoes and a heavy scattering of teeny-tiny capers. The mozzarella provided a creamy background for the salty pops of the other ingredients, none of which were skimped on. R had the Originale calzone, a meaty punch of chorizo, salami milano, roasted peppers and mozzarella that was let down by a bowl of watery tomato sauce that tasted of little more than de-canned passata.
The Hideaway is worth a visit, especially if you're hungry and in Archway. Although the calzone's side sauce was a disappointment, every other aspect of the meal was top-notch. For an area that otherwise seems more a staging-post than a destination, Archway is swiftly proving me wrong.